לפני שקוראים ומביטים בתמונות תנו לצלילי להוליך אתכם  לגג העולם להימליה...

 אחרי שחוזרים  מהמסע מתחילה מלאכת התיעוד, השיחזור בנית הסיפר של זמן ומקום. ואוספים השמות, במפה, מצרפים יומנים, מחברים  התמונות והקולות. מצלמים החפצים . יוצרים רשומון.שלנו והשותפים לדרך.

מוניק כתבה אפוס אני רק מצרף הערות שוליים ותמונות.
 
בקטמנדו בשדה התעופה נפרדים ואני במטוס קטן לפוקרה לטרק שלי בנפאל,  קוראים לו פון היל  מנויפלד ועד לטאטופני
 
אחרי הטראק בפוקרה נפגשים ! בתאום של 15 דקות מפרידות , ויחד מגלים את הפנינה 
 
 הקסוסים לקטמנדו חזרנו בנסיעה באוטובוס בחגיגה של מראות ועמק נהר. וקטמנדו בירה מתפוררת עם מקדשים, אוצרות מורשת עולמית
 
ובקטמנדו מברכים  הבדלה בבית חבד , מוצאים מפלט בגני חלומות. בפשמוטי בגבול בין החיים והמתים, מגלים משמעות אחרת לחיים ,
מצלצלים בפעמונים, מסובבים את גלגלי התפילה והרוח בדגלים נושאת תפילה .
ואני מוסיף מודה אני ...
 
 
 

 From  one civilization to another.......


                           From order to seeming chaos
               From borderline sterility to filth and pollution
        From careful distances between beings to comfortable comforting
               contact  between the country's nationals.            
   From insensitive hi- tech,  hi-paced logic to laid-back humored patience,
                                           tolerance and care


And then back again to the Israeli reality.... three weeks in a State of Mind called Shangri La …with lots of flashbacks of the Himalayan mountains and Tibetan mantras still humming in my soul. All this with a sigh of relief to be  in clean, ordered surroundings again.


After a surprisingly pleasant visit to chilly Moscow, David and I flew into Nepal.  David flew out immediately to Pokhara to start his 6-day trek on the Annapura Poon Hill trail.


 I spent a luxurious week in a quiet Ayurveda spa surrounded by a dirty noisy, polluted and over-populated Kathmandu. I was tenderly massaged, cleansed,  fed and given personalized yoga and breathing sessions.
It was a shared international experience with an old German ex-actress drama queen, a huge Russian "bear of a man" who had a horrible auto-immune disease and couldn't walk.  He also couldn't speak a word of English. Nonetheless we communicated well enough without a common language to know he is a metal worker from Siberia with two sons and lots of pain. And two Japanese office girls who wanted a week's escape from their routine. My "pal" there was an Australian woman....who showed me the ropes around intensive Kathmandu.
When I did go out , I went to a Swiss-based orphanage (ROPKA) to meet Anju – the “adopted daughter” of a Swiss born Tibetan nun who founded the institute and is the niece of my good friend and chosen older sister, Marion who told me to connect with them.
And connect we did!  Anju is a very self-assured, intelligent, young woman whose mother gave her 2 children to  the Institute 20 years ago because she couldn't take care of them.  There the young girl and her brother were well educated - and the institute also took their mother in and found her work making bags and other sewn goodies.
 
Beautiful Anju told me about her life and how she got to the orphanage and the wonderful possibilities it gave her. She showed me around the orphanage where 55 young children-who were saved from living on the streets-live. The older children are responsible for the younger ones.  She is a 2nd year Social Work student and plans to dedicate her life to getting more kids off the street.
The orphange's focus for these children is education so the rest of their lives are very very spartan.  I did notice that old worn out stuffed animals were proudly displayed on the smaller children's bed. The walls of the older children were covered with pictures of fashion and celebs.......teenagers!
I was a bit shocked at their "library"...they are in great need of English books , magazines, clothes of every age group – and some nice stuffed animals.  If anyone would like to contribute, I will be sending them some packages in the near future.


And even in their need...what touched me so... was that the orphanage teaches the children compassion by running a soup kitchen at their place so others who didn't get off the street can at least eat once a day.


So after my Ayurveda experience, I flew to Pokhara to reunite with David
No matter how much fun I have on my personal travels, no matter how interesting the people and places are, it's just so much better to share it with Davy... He was also very, very happy to be with me again.  He had a very strenuous trek and was ready for some light travel. On his adventure he met lots of people on the way who we have subsequently met in Kathmandu. In particular a young Nepalese hi- techie and his girlfriend who invited us to visit their animation studio to fed us mo-mos and give us an insight of how the caste system works there (slightly more tolerant than that of India).


Pokhara is not exactly the top of the world as far as altitude goes. But boating on Phewa Tal lake, and rising every morning 4:30am to catch the first rays of sunlight on the Annapurna, Machhpulchhre and Dalagri snow- covered mountain tops do make one high on the magnificence of nature.   
We spent an entire glorious day on,near and IN the lake.  The weather was perfect...the sun warm and soothing. The mountains looming down at us from every angle. We met friends from the past there and some young travels yell at us, "hey, Kesos what are you doing here?"  Kids from Kfar Vradim . Neat. And we also met Yoel Shalit from Mitzpe Hila with his girlfriend..just hanging out on a bench in front of the lake. We exchanged greetings and info about the treks.
 
Pokhara was the beauty mark of the trip.  After three days we left on an eight hour ride by unconditioned tourist bus to Kathmandu.  Shops, shrines, shops, temples, shops, a few parks, shops, monkeys, free roaming cows, shops, shops, shops. The most fascinating of our days in the capital were the Pashupati Funeral Pyres....were we followed the whole process from arrival to cleansing to arranging the body on the pyre and then setting it on fire.  It was a family ceremony and done with love and respect.  We were in awe at the concentration of belief we were witnessing.


 I met Anju again before I left for Israel with another surprise. David and I met a very special girl in the Patan Museum in Kathamndu.  I taught her English privately when she was a child and had a very special relationship with her. Noga Zivan turned out to be an Oxford PhD whose profession is charitable institutions.  So I was very happy to make the connection between her and Anju and the school.


And there was so much more....our gentle Havdala encounter with Beit Chabad with Chani and Itzik...an oasis for young Jewish travelers known for the hundreds (even thousands) of Israelis who gather from their wanderings in India and Nepal to celebrate Passover at the Chabad open house.


Our morning coffees with Hari ....an  intelligent, good soul who sold coffee and baked goods on the streets on Kathmandu became a tradition.


Hundreds of temples and stupas , sadus...walking for hours, getting around with public transportation.


And the last endearing memory I will always have of our time in Nepal...was in The Garden of Dreams -an island of beauty and quiet in a manicured Edwardian styled garden.....in the middle of the Kathmandu cacophony. David was so high, he climbed on the amphitheater stage, got down on one knee and proposed marriage to me......Finally!!!!  He never asked 39 years ago.  He decided we were getting married and that was it. I was amused....and I was pleased. 
 
So our time in Nepal was a feast for our eyes as you will see from the attached pictures and a warm encounter with many people from all over the world..........It was a really wonderful vacation

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